Piccioli wanted to rethink the suit, move away from the stiff Nineties aesthetic, and pivot toward something more modern, free and fluid.

[...] He also wanted to democratize his offer, and open up the fashion house to new men and new ideas. To wit: He worked with Undercover’s Jun Takahashi, who’s been turning out upscale streetwear since the Nineties, on the show’s cartoonish, sci-fi illustrations, including the fusion of Edgar Allan Poe with a spaceship, designs that were due to appear in Undercover’s show later Wednesday evening. He worked with Birkenstock on the footwear, because it’s “the opposite of a couture brand,” said Piccioli.

S. Conti, WWD.com